You order the “G” Man for the history - and its old-school rush of flavors. You order the Bub’s Italian Hoagie for the sheer craft. It’s the fatty-acid interplay between ingredients - sliced meats, cheeses, oil, vinegar, hot peppers (always hot peppers), onions, lettuce and bread - that makes this sub so unassailable. The hard roll has tradition and a kind of inflated machismo behind it, but the truth is, the “G” Man is a thing of beauty no matter what bread you select.
“They don’t make men like that anymore.” You can order a “G” Man - created by Mangialardo’s father, Joe, for two FBI agents headed to a game by the team formerly named after a racial slur - with a soft roll (from H&S Bakery) or a hard roll (Catania Bakery). He offers up an anecdote instead: “My grandfather could eat a hard roll with, or without, his dentures,” he says. After they eat it their story changes to that was amazing I know the idea of mayo and mustard on a scrambled egg disk sounds odd, but trust me youll. Tony Mangialardo, third-generation proprietor of this storied Capitol Hill deli, doesn’t come right out and say those who prefer soft rolls are snowflakes.
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